If yours is not here, call or email. We do not mind explaining.
It depends on access, size, complexity, and cleanup. A straightforward fruit-tree prune might be a couple hundred dollars. A large removal with tight access might be a few thousand. Photos and a quick description let us give a real ballpark before we come out, so you are not paying us to drive over just to tell you a number.
Yes. General liability and workers compensation. Certificate of insurance available on request, and you should ask anyone you hire for one. If a contractor balks at the question, walk away.
The International Society of Arboriculture is the recognized professional body for tree care. The certification requires three years of full-time tree-care work, a written exam covering biology, diagnosis, soil science, climbing, and safety, and continuing education every three years to maintain. It is not a marketing badge.
You can verify any arborist's credential on the ISA's Find an Arborist tool.
Both, depending on the tree and the access. Climbing is often the right call for residential properties with tight spaces, fruit trees, and anywhere a bucket truck would not fit or would damage the lawn. For large removals near structures, rigging from the canopy gets you better control than working from the bucket.
Most deciduous trees do best with dormant-season pruning, late fall through late winter. Fruit trees have specific windows: apples and pears in late winter, stone fruits a little later. Oaks should be pruned in winter to avoid oak-wilt risk where it is present. Storm-damage and hazard pruning happens whenever it needs to. Spring and summer are fine for light cleanup but heavier work waits.
We put together a free fruit-tree pruning calendar (PDF) specifically for Cache Valley if you want a season-by-season guide.
No. Topping is the practice of indiscriminately cutting back large branches to stubs. It is one of the most damaging things you can do to a tree, and most arborists treat it as malpractice. If your tree is too tall or too wide for its spot, there are real options: structural pruning, crown reduction done properly, cabling and bracing, or removal and replanting with a species that fits. We will walk you through them. Tops are for cakes, not trees.
Usually yes, sometimes no. A walk-through with hands on the bark and eyes on the canopy tells the real story. We are happy to come look and give you a straight answer. If the tree can recover with the right care, we will tell you what that costs. If it cannot, we will tell you that too.
Non-urgent jobs: within the week. For storm damage or active hazards (a tree leaning at the house, a limb hanging over the driveway) same day. Call instead of emailing for anything urgent.
Yes. Cash, check, or card. Net 15 on invoices unless we agree otherwise.
Talk to your neighbor first. The better play is almost always a proper prune that benefits both yards, split between you. We are happy to bid a job that involves both properties. It is the kind of neighborly thing that grows on people.
Yes if you want us to, no if you want to keep it. Firewood-quality logs can be left in lengths you can split. Chips can be left as mulch or hauled off. Your call, no upcharge either way.
Yes. HOA common areas, commercial properties, new-build landscape design, and municipal planning. Ben has done planning work for American Fork City and loves designing landscapes for new builds. See the commercial page for what an engagement looks like.